After the day of rest and an evening fashion host put on by our every own Ezmy and Kristi Soomer. (My surfing parter in crime. Hi Kristi!) Kristi has her very own clothing company encircled. Kristi was also on the last yoga retreat with Jackie and Brendan back in March. When I think this is what came from her experience, I’m reminded that yoga does amazing things.
Jackie started our morning off with a creative vinyasa class. I always love a good Jackie creative vinyasa, and this was no exception. This class was the was the full version of the sequence Jackie guided us though the day before everyone arrived. I really enjoyed the flow of class and felt much stronger today than the last. That is until we attempted this twisted crow pose, or whatever Jackie called it! Afterward, I was ready for more surfing! I was invigorated and wanted to hit the waves once more. But if had I known what lay ahead, I wouldn’t have been so enthusiastic.
I took the morning surf crew out again to have extra beach and Nosara time for the afternoon. When we arrived at the Nosara Surf Academy Kimberly informed us today was the day! We were going beyond the break! We were catching the big waves! Oh no.
Paddling out the the brake is exhausting. You paddle for so long, pop up over waves, turtle dive under others until you reach this area of calm waters. Then we sat. You sit on your board and wait until the right wave comes along. Until that moment hits our heart is pounding in anticipation of the thrill of riding the wave back to shore. I did this! I actually rode the big waves, but with the highs come the lows, and the with the lows comes fear.
When you’re up on the big wave that’s when you need to find the sweet spot and let everything come together. Because when it doesn’t there is a world wind of water beneath you ready to toss you around and around the moment you fall. This is called the Washing Machine. And it’s scary. You are tossed in every direction. You have no idea which way is up. You have no idea where your board is. But it’s what makes surfing that much more exciting.
My surfing buds, Kristi and Mandy, both had their share of the Washing Machine too. We were all shaken up and needed a release. Alcohol was that release. Hey, we survived a very intense surfing moment and it was Kimberly’s last day of coaching us. These drinks were drinks of “Oh my god, I’m still alive!” and “We love you, Kimberly!” The other drinks were not part of my plan…
Once the surfing crew came to meet us, more drinks happened and then the raw food cleanse was broken! I ate a veggie burger. A cooked veggie burger. At the time, I felt awful about it. But when I think of it now, I realize that didn’t die and I deserved something for my insanity of a surf day. Plus these yogis are amazing people and friends I will carry with me forever. Oh, that day in Nosara when I almost died and drank my fears away, good times in Costa Rica!